Monday, February 22, 2010

Fitted Crib Sheet

http://www.prudentbaby.com/2010/02/diy-fitted-sheet-for-pack-n-play.html#more
DIY Pack 'N Play Sheet Tutorial

This sheet fits my Combi Jazz Play Yard "mattress" which is pretty standard and measures 36" X 26.5" (they're all around 30"x40"), but the sheet is forgiving so if yours is within the general ballpark this sheet should work fine.

1. Wash, dry and cut your fabric. Add 7 inches to the length and to the width of your mattress, so i cut a piece of fabric 43" X 33.5". And a piece of 3/4" elastic 60" long.




2. Fold it in half lengthwise and then widthwise so it looks like this:

On the outside corner, the one with no folds, cut a 3.5" square through all the layers.

Your item now looks like this:




3. Line up the cut edges at one corner and sew them together with right sides facing:

Repeat on all four corners.

4. Along the bottom of your sheet, fold the fabric 1/4" to the inside and iron, then 1" and iron, and pin in place.

Starting next to a corner, sew all the way around with a straight stitch, leaving a hole and backstitching and the beginning and end.




5. Thread your piece of 3/4" elastic through the hole and all the way around. It helps to pin one side of it to an ironing board or some other surface and to use a safety pin to feed it through:

Pull it out and sew both sides together with a stretch stitch or a zig zag stitch.

Close the hole by sewing across the opening with a straight stitch.

You're done!
It looks like this from the bottom:

And like this from the top:

Swaddle Blanket

http://www.prudentbaby.com/2010/02/diy-swaddle-blanket-pattern.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+PrudentBaby+%28Prudent+Baby%29&utm_content=Google+Reader

DIY Swaddle Blanket Pattern


OK ladies, I am super proud of this DIY Swaddle Blanket so be nice (I know you're always nice, but please be extra nice). This gift is destined for a baby yet-to-be-born so it's modeled here by my other child, Scarlet's sister, Pandy. It's okay, you can laugh at Pandy's forlorn, distant stare. Just don't laugh at my attempt to show you how to make a swaddle blanket.

There are so few free tutorials on how to make a swaddling blanket and so many expensive versions on the market, so I've been feeling them all out and trying to come up with a simple, yet effective, way to make your own. This swaddling blanket tutorial is free and will cost you under $5 to make. It can be sewn in about an hour or two depending on your sewing style. Here's a little step-by-step on how this homemade swaddling blanket works. It can be tucked or tied. Don't worry, it works the same for pandas and babies.

Tell me what you think in the comments, please!!! And get the full Swaddle Blanket Pattern after the jump...

How to Make A Swaddle Blanket
Free Swaddle Blanket Pattern

1. You'll need 1 yard of flannel (you can use another fabric but i personally found that the non-stretch quality of flannel was ideal for swaddling) and a 1/4 yard of a cute cotton print. Fold the flannel in half along the width (around 45" for most fabric yardage) on the diagonal and draw a 40" line from the outside corner to the fold to create a triangle like so:

Cut along that line.

2. Leave your triangle folded and draw a 4" line horizontally across the tip and cut the tip off like so:

Here's a little diagram to make it more clear:




3. Now at this point I serged a rolled hem all the way around my triangle blanket, but if you don't have a serger I'll give you other options after the picture:

You can fold 1/8" and iron all the way around, then another 1/8" inch, iron, pin and sew a hem, or if you want, you can cut another triangle of the same size (in the same or coordinating fabric), sew the two triangles together with right sides facing leaving a turning hole, then turn them inside out, iron flat, and top-stitch around the edge.
Here is my completed rolled hem:


4. Now set your swaddle blanket aside and let's create the wrap. Cut a piece of fabric the length of your yard (44"-45") and 10" wide. Fold it in half lengthwise:

the again widththwise so it's quartered, then draw your tie shape onto it starting at the fold. I freehanded it but you can trace something round for the curves and use a ruler for the straight edges. See this picture for guidance:

Cut that out. This is what it will look like unfolded:


5. So you need a piece of flannel the same size, but if you only bought one yard of flannel (or to get the most out of the yard you already cut into a triangle) you should cut two pieces. Trace the shape of your cotton tie piece onto your flannel and cut two identical pieces, each representing half of your tie:


6. Lay your cotton tie piece right side up, and your two flannel pieces right side down on top with the middle edges lining up, like so:

Pin around the edges:

Then sew in place. Trim the seam allowance and cut little notches at the corners:


7. Turn the whole thing right side out through the space between your two flannel pieces. Push out the edges and iron it flat:

When it's right side out, cut a piece of fusible tape and iron it between the cotton and the flannel along the cut edges of the flannel:

Then top stitch 1/4" from the edge all the way around:


8. Now grab your blanket you made earlier. Fold the triangle in half down the center and iron a nice sharp line into it:

Unfold it so your ironed edge is up.

Take your tie piece and fold it in half with the cotton pattern to the inside and the flannel outside and line it up with the ironed edge of the blanket abut 3 inches down from the top:

Carefully pin the center of the tie to the center line of the blanket:

Now you want to sew that in place. Because you will see the sewn line on all sides, and you want to be sure to catch both edges of the flannel, I used a decorative leaf stitch my sewing machine has, but you don't have to, you can use a zig zag. The fusible tape we added earlier ensures we have everything in place:

Here is how it looks from the inside:


YOU ARE DONE MY FRIEND!


Wrap that baby up:

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Men's Tie to Boy's Tie

http://craftskeepmesane.blogspot.com/2010/01/tutorial-tuesday-childs-tie.html
1) Take a regular tie and tie the back side to the desired length. Once you have the desired length of the tie, measure the size of the child's neck (with a shirt on) and make the loop that length. I always like to go an inch bigger, just in case.


2) Next cut off the long end of the tie right at the knot. Also, put a couple of stitches in the knot so that it will not fall apart, I always do more than necessary just in case.

3) Cut the loop in the middle

4) Attach velcro to the ends of the loop. I stitched the ends of the tie so they wouldn't far apart and then added the velcro.

These work great for babies and toddlers, but I even made on for my 4 year old. I just made it longer. It just looks like a nice skinny tie.

Onesie Dress/ Tights Headband

http://projectsbyjess.blogspot.com/2010/02/summer-onesie-tutorial.html
Easy sewing project to embellish a plain generic onesie into a cute, coordinated, convenient outfit.
Details on project and more photos of finished dress on actual baby HERE.
I hope this tutorial is straight forward and seems manageable. Even if you are new to sewing, you can do it! You could always leave off the arm cuffs to make it a little easier too.

Also, this tutorial is for personal use only. I ask that you respect my design and the time to put this tutorial together and only use the dresses you will make for yourself, family and friends, not for commercial use/ profit. Thanks!





SUPPLIES:
**just a reminder to prewash all your fabric and onesie before you start

-white, short-sleeved onesie
this tutorial measurements are for Gerber 6-9 mo onesies,
see end of tutorial for tips on adjusting for larger sizes, different brands may fit differently also

-1/4 yard skirt print (paisley)
cut into skirt piece 6" x 28"
arm cuffs: 2 pieces 1.5" x 8" each
paisley scrap for bird wing

- contrasting red stripe
(great way to use scraps, or buy 1/8 yard or even less)
cut into strip 2" x 28"

freezer paper, fabric paint

-white knee-high nylon

-scrap of red knit/ felt/ or fleece
any fabric that won't fray, I used a scrap of an upcycled red t-shirt
-button
-grosgrain ribbon
2-3" or so
-scrap of fusible interfacing
-embroidery thread
for bird legs and sewing wing on

So let's get started!

HEADBAND


I thought it would be good to start out with the headband. It is quick and easy.

1. trace three circles on your red non-fray fabric.
You could use fleece, felt, or I used stretch knit--a scrap from a red t-shirt I've been upcyclng.
I use a plastic spaghetti measurer to have 3 circles of descending sizes right there.
2. Cut out the circles
3. Stack circles and sew button on top.

Next to make the stretchy nylon headband:

First, cut off the top cuff of the nylon.


At this point you can sew over the scrunch, but I just tie the long threads together in a knot and snip the ends to keep the nylon scrunched.

SEW RIBBON AROUND SEAM


At this point, you just need to sew the button flower onto the red ribbon patch. I hand sew down through the button holes and back up to attach the flower.
Headband is finished!


BIRD
To make the bird, there is a combination of the freezer paint and applique.
First, we'll paint the bird ton the center front of the onesie.
For the shape of the bird body, I drew a pear shape about 2" tall and 1.5" wide, with a triangle for a beak.
Cut out the bird body, and iron on the onesie.
**Make sure you put cardboard or something between the layers of the onesie, so paint doesn't soak through on the back!
Paint the body, mine took 2 coats.
When paint is dry, seal paint with ironing on the back with dry, high temperature heat.


Next we'll make the wing.


Iron on your paisley to the scrap of fusible interfacing.
Cut out wing.
Using contrasting (turquoise) embroidery floss or regular thread, hand sew on wing on top of painted bird, and sew the legs on.
I just go along with the thread to make legs, I should trace them on first, but I just embroider them on.
I liked the simplicity of no eye on the bird. For me I thought the detail on the paisley wing was the focus, and the body was more of a sillouette. But you could always sew on a little button, or knot the turquoise thread for an eye.







DRESS
Now we just need to make the skirt and cuffs for this dress!


Start by hemming the red strip. I serged one of the long edges, but you could zig-zag it instead, or just skip it if your fabric doesn't fray.

Fold edge under a little more than 1/4".

Top stitch hem with 1/4" seam allowance.

If you want, a double needle or two rows of top-stitching look more manufactured, but I just went with one being that it is so narrow.


Next, we'll construct the skirt.



Now you have a 28" wide rectangle with a red stripe on the bottom. To make it a skirt, we'll next sew the back seam.

At this point I serged the seam allowance, and along the raw top edge of the skirt.

Now to attach the skirt to the onesie!

To do this quick and without a ruler/ measuring tape, I fold rectangle in half with the seam being one side and pin the opposite. So I have 2 pins, in the halfs, which will end up being front and back.
Put those 2 pins together, and the folded edges the other direction become the other quarters, which will end up being the sides of the skirt.

Measure onesie line to attach skirt.

1. Lay onesie totally flat. On each side seam, measure up 2" from bottom. Mark on both sides.

2. Draw a line between 2 points on side seams with pencil, tailor chalk, or disappearing pen.

3. Mark (I used pins) the center on the front & back of the onesie.
You're basically marking the onesie into quarters too (like the skirt) using the side seams as your other quarter markers.


Now to pin the skirt on the onesie, you'll flip the skirt inside-out, and upside down. This way, right sides are touching, and the seam allowance will be hidden underneath the skirt.

The skirt is a lot larger than the onesie, so it will scrunch/ gather when we sew it on. This is why it's important to measure quarters of the skirt to make sure scrunch is even all the way around.

1. Pin the skirt to the onesie
First with the back seam of the skirt on the back center of the onesie.
Next take the quarter portion of the skirt and pin it to the side seam of the onesie, along the line on both sides.
Lastly, pin the final skirt pin on the front of the onesie in the center.
2. Sew skirt to onesie.
Place the open bottom of the onesie to your right to sew the skirt on. I start at a side seam. You'll notice you have a lot of skirt, and not much onesie to sew to the next pin, as you can see with the skirt bulging up in this photo.
The idea is that as you sew, you need to stretch the onesie to match the skirt. This is why we pinned the onesie quarters to the skirt quarters. So grab the next pin, and stretch the onesie, and sew along with 3/8" or 1/2" seam allowance.


You do need 2 hands to sew as you stretch, keep your left hand on the back of the fabric, and you right hand on the front, to hold the onesie stretched as the machine moves it along.

Sew to the next pin, take it out, and stretch the onesie to the next pin. Pretty soon you've made it all around the onesie. Once you've sewn the skirt on, the onesie naturally scrunches it up or gathers it.

Hanging, it may seem like the skirt is stretching out the waist of the onesie, but you need it to be able to stretch to get it on and off, and once the baby is wearing it, their belly fills it out and it looks just fine!

I like to secure the 1/2" or so of seam allowance down to the onesie. So I just zig-zag along again.
REMEMBER!
Even though it's a lot easier to just zig-zag along now the skirt is attached, you still need to stretch the onesie again as you sew.

If you don't stretch the onesie when you zig-zag, the stitching will probably bust out when the mom stretches it over the baby's head.


Almost done!




ARM CUFFS
These cute little trims on the sleeves add a lot to complete the "outfit" I think. You could also use your contrasting red rather than the turquoise paisley.
MAKE THE CUFFS WITH YOUR 2: 1.5" X 8" pieces

1. Fold right sides together, and sew 1/4" seam allowance up short sides.
2. Press open the seam.
3. Fold the open seam on itself, so the 1.5" wide circle gets folded over into a 3/4" wide circle, with the short seam allowance hidden inside
4. Serge/ zig-zag along the edges, sewing the two layers together.

5. Pin each cuff on the edge of the onesie sleeve, serged edge at the edge of the sleeve.
Line up the seam of your cuff with the seam of the onesie armpit.

SEW ON CUFFS
It can be hard to handle the seam being such a small circle, this is how I arrange it in my machine, sewing on the inside of the sleeve.

**Remember you will have to stretch the onesie sleeve a little bit like the skirt.

Next we'll topstitch the sleeve edge to flatten the seam.

1. Flip the cuff down, and pull the onesie away from the cuff so it's a flat and smooth seam.
2. Sew 1/8" away from your last seam, to sew the folded seam allowance flat, otherwise, it will want to fold back up.
The thread you use on this last seam around the cuff, will show on the outside. I used red so it would contrast the white onesie. But you could switch to white thread to match, or if you're nervous about sewing a seam that will be seen.

Sew on the other cuff, and you're finished!

TIPS TO ADJUST FOR LARGER ONESIE SIZE:
For width of skirt, just add 1-2" to take it up to 30" wide for the skirt and stripe.

The cuffs may have to be adjusted. Take a sleeve and stretch it, [these Gerber 6-9 mo. were 3.5" once stretched]. Double the length [7"] and add one inch or less for seam allowance.
[ 3.5 x2 = 7 +1 = 8 total inches for cuff length. ]
You can keep them 2" wide.

IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO MAKE ONE YOURSELF, I HAVE ONE IN MY ETSY HERE.

If you have questions, I'm more than happy to answer questions, or if you have suggestions to make it easier, please let me know!
runningscissor@gmail.com

I made a few more dresses to give you some ideas for variations of this tutorial:

rather than contrasting strips, just sewed ribbon on the hem of butterfly
butterfly & owl rather than paisley bird